POP BOTTLE BIRDFEEDER
Every wonder what to do with those 2 liter plastic pop bottles? Here's
something to help you out along with your winged friends.
Bird Feeder
Materials:
2 - 2 liter plastic bottles
1 - Wire coat hanger
1 - 3/8" wooden dowel (9" long)
2 - rivets (or hot glue or silicone)
Tools:
Ice Pick or drill
Wire cutting pliers
Single edge razor blade
Rivet gun, glue gun or caulk gun
Bottle #1
Measure up 6-1/2: from bottom and cut off. Discard the top or use it
for a funnel later. Punch or drill al hole centrally through the bottom
(this is for the wire hanger). Punch or drill 2 holes through the black
portion of the bottom on opposite sides from the top edge of the black portion.
(Insert the dowel completely through, allowing it to extend on both sides).
Just above the black portion above the perch, cut a 2"x2" opening
(both sides). This completes the bottom portion of your feeder.
Bottle #2
Pull off the black bottom of this bottle. Partially filling with hot
water will help to soften the glue and make the removal easier. Fill the
holes in the black plastic portion with silicone or hot glue. This waterproofs
the lid of your feeder. Once again, drill or punch a hole centrally through
this portion. (This is for the wire hanger.) Cut a 3-1/2" circle from
the clear bottom of the bottle leaving a curved portion for the top cap
to fit easily. This creates the opening to fill your feeder.
Now put the two bottles together, inserting #2 neck down into #1. Push
them together Snugly. If properly done (and depending on they type of bottles),the
opening of #2 should be above the feeding level. Punch 2 holeson opposite
sides where the two bottles join and fasten the top to thebottom with pop
rivets, hot glue, or silicone.
Now cut and straighten a wire coat hanger (you will need a piece about
24" long), and pass it through the feeder, top to bottom. Bend a small
hook on the lower end of the wire to keep the bottom of the feeder secure.
Now place the top cap over the wire to keep the bottom of the feeder secure.
Now place the top cap over the wire and slide into place over the open end
of the top of the feeder. Cut off the wire 8" to 10" above the
top and bend a hook to be used to hang the feeder at an appropriate site.

ORNAMENTAL WALL OR FENCE HANGINGS
Did you know you can make more with MudArt Molds than just stepping stones?
Make these ornamental fence or wall hangings to match your stepping stone
landscape design! Here's how:
To make fence art or yard art out of stepping stone molds, just fill
the mold up only half and add some wire for a hanger. We use pieces
of wire hanger (sturdy) bent into square "U" shapes with wings.
Place the wire into the just poured concrete in the top/center of the mold.
Place a piece of styrofoam under the wire to keep it from sinking.
After the concrete dries, chip out the styrofoam from under the wire.
You can also use pop can tops (just insert the tab part plus a little
more into the wet concrete), or just a wire loop. Just make sure that
the hanger is buried in the wet concrete at least half the depth of the
concrete.
FOLLOW DIRECTIONS FOR GREAT RESULTS
Working with concrete is easy if you remember to follow directions carefully.
Remember to fill your molds only to within 1/8" of the top (not completely
full). When the concrete is dried, turn the mold over and gently add pressure
to the back. This will "drop" the mold right out onto that 1/8"
space. Makes removing the stone a lot easier and your molds will last longer.
PAINTING YOUR STEPPING STONES
If you want to paint your stepping stones, they must be completely dry
and dirt free. Drying them in the house or garage where they are semi-protected
is the best way to ensure dryness.
Many people use regular acrylic paints and really get fancy with shading
and details. Sherwin-Williams also has an excellant concrete paint that
can be mixed WITH any color on their color charts.
But, before the first coat goes on, the stone should be sealed with a masonry
sealer. Leave the bottom unsealed so any moisture the stone collects while
in the yard has a chance to escape. Paint your stone anyway you wish and
then SEAL IT AGAIN. Or, primer your stone with a neutral color before painting and then, after you get done painting, seal your stone all the way around to keep all moisture out. This will help the paint stay on longer. Send us pictures of your finished stone so we can share your ideas with everyone else. (We will keep your name a secret if you wish.) If you do not seal your stone before painting it, be sure to seal it all the way around to keep all moisture out after you get done painting.
Remember by filling your molds only half full and inserting a hanger,
you now have Fence Art to match your stepping stones. These too can be painted
to individual taste.
WALKWAY AND PATIO PREPARATION
Concrete pavers need a permanent border and well-compacted bed or they
will spread apart and settle unevenly. Thise border could be cedar benderboard,
concrete curbing, or edged grass. Once the installation is complete, it
is easier to replace stained or broken pavers with a border.
A walkway or patio will be only as good as the bed it sits on. Be sure
to carefully compact all bedding gravel and sand. After creating a permanent
border, set pavers on a 4-in. layer of compacted 3/4-minus gravel topped
with a 1-in. layer of compacted bedding sand.
Following these simple instructions will help ensure that your walkway
or patio will last for many years with a minimum of maintenance or upkeep.
This information was brought to you by "Today's Homeowner"
magazine...July/August 1999 issue.
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